WEBVTT

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This second chapter is using a lot of techniques

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and theory of the first chapter. In these videos

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I will guide you on how to build a body out of

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primitive objects. We will cover this in this

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video in a moment. In the next videos we will

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continue to define the primitive objects to get

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a full planar body. If you want you can use your

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head sculpt from chapter one to attach to the

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chapter but it's not really necessary. And just

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like chapter one this is followed by merging,

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smoothing and stylizing the body. The difference

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is that we'll already plan out the stylization

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while we have the objects separated. After that

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I will go more into a time lapse to cover more

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ground on polishing the body while giving commentary on my methods, design decisions

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and thought process. After that I will go over

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the basics on creating different types of base

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meshes for sculpting clothes. This is then

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followed up with demonstrations and explanations

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on how to sculpt fabric, wrinkles and folds.

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With all those lessons completed I will give you

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full commentated time lapses of sculpting

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Reign's body and outfits. So let's get started!

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Just like with the head we'll start by modeling the body out of primitive objects

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with minimal changes to the geometry. For the

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head you can create one from scratch or if you

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want you can just import the one from chapter

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one. You can do this by either appending the

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collection that you put the head objects in or

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by opening the file selecting the objects you

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want to copy and then copying them with ctrl c

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then open the body file and paste the objects

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with ctrl v. So right now it's all about the most basic proportions and shapes that

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the human body is built off. For this example

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I'm again going to use the male anatomy as an example but the Reign time lapses will

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fill in the rest by showing you the female one.

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And this is again really about internalizing

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the overall body shapes, forms and structure.

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Eventually you could even just sculpt the entire body from one sphere if you like

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as long as you internalize the basics through

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practice. Just like in chapter one I kept

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organizing my sculpted objects and collections

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and named them in the outliner to the right.

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This makes quick hiding, isolating and orientation very easy. We are going to

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start off with the torso. I made some quick

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annotation drawings to show you the proportions

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and shapes we are generally going for. You

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can download and check out the file yourself

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with my body sculpting results included. Generally all the human proportions can be.

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based on the size of the head. For an idealized

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body the human is about eight heads tall.

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You can see the overall proportions in this with written down milestones

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of what part of the body is where. For each head you stack on top of each other.

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You can find more detailed illustrations of

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this online of course. Just search for something

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along the lines of human drawing proportions. A

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more accurate way of measuring the body would be.

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more like seven and a half heads but we'll stick to the idealized version since it's

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simpler to memorize. For the torso it's good

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to start out looking at it from the side.

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The spine is curved by nature so it's good to

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start with the torso thinking of a sphere for

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the chest and a sphere for the pelvis. Both

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rotated slightly towards the front and each other.

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This can then be connected with a section in

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between to form the belly area. Move the 3D cursor

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from the side view with a shortcut shift right

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mouse button or the cursor tool. This way you

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won't accidentally move the 3D cursor along

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the x-axis like you would do from the front.

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We want to keep the middle objects centered

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at all times. Add a UV sphere for the rib cage

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with shift a and then scale it up to match the size of the annotations with s.

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Then rotate it a bit clockwise with r and scale

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it along its local z-axis to make it longer with

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s and then hitting z twice. You can then duplicate the sphere with shift d and move

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it towards the pelvis. It's also good to note

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that I enabled random colors in the shading

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options. This way each object is visibly different with a randomly assigned color.

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This makes it a bit easier to keep the many objects apart.

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From the front view we can then make both spheres a bit

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wider by scaling them along the x-axis with s and then pressing x. For the spine

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belly area we'll create a cylinder. To bring

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it into shape we'll go into edit mode and

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add an edge loop in the middle of the cylinder

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with ctrl r or the loop cut tool. We can then

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select the upper edge loop with alt select

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and grab it with g to align it with the chest.

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We'll also scale it up on the x-axis a bit to

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make the chest overall wider than the center.

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Same thing for the bottom loop and the pelvis.

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But we'll keep that one the same scale.

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At first we're going to try to stay on the realistic side so the torso needs to gain

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more volume. For a stylized character the body

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can be slimmer or more varied. Just scale up

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the objects to fit the body proportions we are

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going for. Since all these objects are kept

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separate it will be very easy to change the

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proportions quickly later on. From here on out

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we'll add the most prominent muscles and hips. Add a cube where the chest has to be.

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We can then subdivide the cube by using the

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shortcut ctrl and either pressing one of the

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numbers from one to four. This will add a subdivision surface modifier to the object

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with the number of subdivisions based on the

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number you pressed. In this case three is fine,

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but you can change the resolution in the modifier

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tab of the properties editor to the right anyway.

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But the result doesn't really look like a cube

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anymore and we want to keep a bit of the cube

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profile. So let's go into edit mode, select

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everything and we'll add edge creases with the

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shortcut shift e. This will change the amount

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of smoothing that is applied to the edges

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when subdividing it with the modifier. You can

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adjust the strength by moving your mouse away

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from the center of the selection or by typing

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in any value from one to from zero to one.

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The strength of the edge crease is indicated by

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how magenta the edge is displayed. We can then

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scale the object down in the y-axis and rotate it into place to form the chest.

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Then in edit mode we'll select the lower right

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corner and move it a bit inwards and the upper

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right corner outwards to meet the shoulder.

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We can then, as in chapter one, add a mirror

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modifier and design a centered empty called center as the mirror object. This way we'll

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keep the local location and orientation of each object if we decide to make proportion

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changes or anything. We can then move on to the

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trapezius to connect the neck to the shoulders

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and the back. I already went over this muscle

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in chapter one, but I'll show here how to

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connect it to the rest of the torso. Create

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a sphere and scale it along the z-axis. Then

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rotate it into place to point towards both the shoulders and the head. From the top it

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should fill in the triangle-like shape that points

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towards the arms. Again add a mirror modifier.

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It's okay if these objects don't quite match

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the annotation lines since we will sculpt them

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further into shape later on. Make sure that the

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chest object is filling in the middle portion

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where the neck and the chest meet. For the

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shoulder blades we'll just reuse the chest object.

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Select and duplicate the object with shift d

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and then move it towards the back. You can then

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rotate it along the z-axis with r and then pressing z to align it with the back. Scale

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the shoulder blades down and rotate them slightly from the back view. You can now

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already notice the armpits forming. Now we'll

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add an extra object for the abdomen. Set the

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cursor ideally from the side before creating

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a new object. If you set it from the front

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it will be shifted along the x-axis and the

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object will be off-center. You can also select

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the belly cylinder and set the 3D cursor to

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the selection with shift s. Add a sphere and

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scale it up. To make it only show in the

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belly and not the back we'll scale it up along

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the z-axis and down on the y-axis. Then move it

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further to the front with pressing g and then y.

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Next up we'll add a sphere on the right of the

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pelvis for the hips. If we look at the drawing

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again this will essentially connect the legs

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to the torso and also form the butt. Scale the

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along the z-axis and rotate it a bit from the

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front or the back view. As always add a mirror

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modifier. If you look at the overall torso

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you can also notice the curvature of it all.

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Now it's time to get into the arms. You can

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also organize these portions of the body into

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individual collections if you like. For this

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example we'll go for an a-pose which means

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the arms are at a tilted angle instead of just completely straight. I'll explain more

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about the resting poses later on. Looking closer at the arms we notice that the main

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portions and moving parts are the shoulders,

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upper arm, a small portion for the elbow and

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the lower arm. The trick about the relationship

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of their shape is that they form kind of a

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thick and a thin side and fit into each other

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like that. So let's demonstrate this by actually

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creating the objects. We'll use subdivided cubes

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for this again and start with the shoulder.

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Place the 3D cursor and add the cube. Press ctrl 3 and go into edit mode and then use

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shift e again to crease the edges that you

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have selected. Also remember you can change the

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X-ray slider and the shading options to 1 to

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see your geometry in edit mode while having the

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shading be completely opaque. Select and grab

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the two corners that point towards the neck and arm to make the shoulders a bit more

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diamond shaped. Switch to edge selection with 2

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and scale the topmost edge down. Afterwards scale the edge towards the torso up.

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For the upper arm we'll create another subdivided

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cube. Rotate it from the front to align its own

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z-axis with the shoulder. Then scale the cube along

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its own z-axis with s and then pressing z twice.

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Try to connect it well with the shoulder. Always

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remember the chain link shape of all of it.

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Scale the upper arm along the y-axis and slightly down on the x-axis.

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Then duplicate the upper arm and rotate it along its own z-axis 90 degrees with r

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and then pressing z twice and then typing in

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90. Go into edit mode and scale down the wrist

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section. We can also add another loop for the

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lower arm with ctrl r or the loop cut tool.

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To define the width more scale the loops along

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the local y-axis to add a bit of thickness to

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the middle portion. To skip a bit of time we

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can assign a mirror modifier to one of them

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and have all other selected and pressing ctrl

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l. Then choose modifiers and the modifier

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stack will be copied to the other objects that you have selected. For the legs we'll

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do something very similar to the arms. We'll

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create the object again from subdivided cubes.

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Keeping a bit of the cube profile is pretty important for the legs though.

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The legs are also angled slightly backwards.

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We can then add some loops to add a bit of

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a leg profile. Move these loops a bit forward to bend the upper leg a bit.

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Then from the front rotate it clockwise to have

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it angled inwards. Then move the loops to give

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the leg a bulge on the right and a bit of an

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s-curve on the left. For the knee we can create

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a sphere to connect the upper and lower leg.

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Scale it along the z-axis and rotate it in the

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opposite direction as the upper leg. For the

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lower leg we'll duplicate the upper one and rotate

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it 180 degrees along the z-axis. Mirror it along the x-axis with ctrl m and pressing x

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and apply the scale with ctrl a and recalculate

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the normals in edit mode with shift n. Make

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sure that the lower leg is a bit displaced to the

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right of the upper leg. Again have a bit of a curve

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to the object on the right. But instead of making the s-curve manually on the left

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we'll push the left side in and keep this

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object purely bent. Also adjust the profile from

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the side with the leg becoming thinner towards

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the ankle. This object will now be the main

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leg and the shins. Place the 3D cursor on the left

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of the lower leg and add a sphere. Scale it up

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along the z-axis and place it in the lower leg

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to create the calves. From the side it should

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be positioned a bit backwards to make it more

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prominent from the back view. Make sure that both

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together form the base shape of the lower leg.

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We'll then select the front left edge loop

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and sharpen the crease a little bit. Assign

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and copy mirror modifiers for the leg objects

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and they are all done. Ideally turn off merge

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for the mirror modifiers to not accidentally

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merge the two sides where they meet. Also be

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careful when copying modifiers between objects

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because some of them might have subdivision surface modifiers on them

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while others don't and sometimes you don't want to copy them over.

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Now it's finally time to move on to the hands.

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One adjustment we can do to the arms first

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is to rotate the lower arm a little bit to

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make it more relaxed. Place the 3D cursor on

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the elbow and switch the pivot point to be the 3D cursor to change the pivot point.

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Then rotate the lower arm around the 3D cursor.

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Create a cube for the palm of the hand. Scale

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it along the three axes to match this kind of

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flat cube shape that you see on the screen.

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We'll do this first and then rotate it into place with the arms. An interesting thing

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about the hand is that the shape of the palm

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is rotating slightly sidewards and the fingers

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are angled counter to that. You can look at your

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own hand as an example and you'll notice it.

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Afterwards we can rotate the cube into place and add the subdivisions as usual.

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In edit mode we can change the edge creasing and adjust the shape a little bit.

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For the fingers we'll also use cubes in this

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case. Cylinders are also fine but I like the

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square profile as a start. Scale the cube along

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the x-axis to get the first finger section.

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Duplicate the cube and position it further up the finger. We'll then scale the second

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down along the x-axis to be about three quarters

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as long as the first. Do the same for the third

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section and scale it to three quarters of the

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length of the second one. This way we have a

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progressive size difference of the finger sections.

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Afterwards set the pivot point to be the 3D

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cursor again and rotate the finger sections a

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bit to make them more relaxed. Afterwards we'll

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connect the cubes as the index finger to the

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palm. Then duplicate the index finger three times

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and place them next to each other. But of

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course not all these fingers are the same size

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so we need to select them and resize them. The

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pinky finger is by far the smallest and placed

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further back into the palm. The ring finger is

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a bit smaller than the middle finger and also

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a bit further back in the palm. The middle finger can stay the same.

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The index finger is a bit smaller than the ring

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finger but further in the front of the palm so

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visually they match each other in length. This

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is of course dependent on the hand. There are

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different looks to hands and finger size and

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length. Same thing for the feet or the general

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proportions of the body. These proportions that

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I'm showing are kind of an idealized rule of thumb.

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If you look at the hand from the side view

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the palm of the hand together with its fingers

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are a bit bent. For the thumb we can duplicate

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two sections of the other fingers and arrange

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on the side of the palm. Remember on which side the thumb is always on.

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Basically the easiest way to remember it is if you have both your hands in front of you

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the thumbs can touch each other. Some of the

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vertices can be pulled into the palm a bit more.

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The lower thumb is then directly leading into

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the wrist. Then we'll just position and scale

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the tip of the thumb. The thumb is not just

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naturally angled at around 45 degrees but also

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rotated a bit downwards. If we look at the

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annotation drawings we can see that at an angle

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the thumb goes about as far as the middle of the hand or roughly where the palm ends.

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This is a good literal rule of thumb to know how long it needs to be.

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To show the bend of the palm a bit more we can add another loop

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and move the vertices on the side a bit down and rotate them a bit.

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Add the mirror modifier to the hand object

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by copying it from an arm object like before

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with Ctrl L. With this we're almost done. The

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last thing that is missing is of course the foot.

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We'll create a foot from basically two objects.

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The first one is another subdivided cube which

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will be the sole. This one will be scaled

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down along the z-axis and then we can define

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the foot profile from below in edit mode. Look up foot profile online for more direct

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reference of how a foot looks like from below.

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First off we can scale the foot up on the y

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and x axis to roughly have the size that we

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want. Then we can add a couple more loops to

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have more geometry to work with. Select and

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move the vertices around to get something close

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to a foot profile. If it ends up still too small you can then scale up the object.

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The second object to add is the rest of the

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foot and we'll do that by adding a cylinder.

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and moving and scaling it roughly into place on top of the sole.

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From below or above we can then select and move

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around the vertices to define the shape more.

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You can also hide other collections of body parts to have less visual clutter. Enable

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proportional editing to have a fall-off effect

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while moving your selections in edit mode.

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Use the scroll wheel to change the radius of that fall-off effect.

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Make the cylinder roughly fit the profile but leave room for the toes.

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Then select the top loop of the cylinder and

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scale it down to match the size of the ankle.

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Then push it back to connect it to the leg.

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The lower part of the leg can also be pushed

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down a bit more to meet the foot. Then as always add mirror modifiers.

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And this is it. We'll have our primitive base mesh for the full body. Also remember

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that you can save and reuse any of these base meshes for future sculpts.

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In the next video we'll finally get into sculpting

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all of these objects into shape. See you then.
