WEBVTT

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Hi, I'm Julian Caspar and in this video I will

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show you the workflow of creating stylized

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characters in Blender based on my experience

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in film productions at the Blender Animation Studio.

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If you find this topic interesting, visit the Blender Cloud, where I go into far more

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detail by giving a step-by-step tutorial course on the subject.

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This tutorial is in a way a brief version

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of the full course, so be aware that I'm not going to dwell on any details.

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There's a link in the description, but let's just dive straight in.

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The full character creation workflow is often

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not very linear and can include different

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steps based on the type and style of the character.

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In this case, I'm giving a somewhat idealized, simplified workflow.

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As the very first thing, it's necessary to know what the character is supposed to be.

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In this case, it's not going to be overly

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cartoony or realistic, but sort of a mix of both.

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This way the style is abstracted enough to not be uncanny,

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but also not too detached from reality to still feel grounded.

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Apart from that, you should have an idea of who your character is supposed to be.

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Nail down individual points like ethnicity,

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gender, age, time period, occupation, attitude,

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and potentially more.

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Really nail down who you want to create.

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Then before this leads us into doing some

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first concepts, it's good to do some research.

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This step might make you re-examine your character, but

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it also should inspire and guide you on creating it.

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There need to be references on the character itself.

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Maybe you have an actor in mind as an inspiration, for example.

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You should also gather references for the

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style you want to use, which are likely going

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to be artworks by other people, which is okay.

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Then there are also references on the technical execution.

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If you want to go for a fur coat, then find out how other people tried and succeeded

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before you, which is going to save you a lot of trial and error.

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And of course, you should always include

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references from real life, like anatomy and fabric behavior and more.

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Know how real life works before you recreate and abstract it.

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Once you have all of it, display it onto a collage, ideally nicely organized in size

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and groups, based on importance and categorization.

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My personal recommendation is using PureRef on a second

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monitor, phone display, or even printing it out on paper.

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Now it's time to work on the design of the character.

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The ideal scenario is to work from an existing concept before going onto 3D.

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This might be your own drawing, or someone else's,

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with their permission and credit of course.

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I have to admit that in my case I didn't work from any drawing, but I can highly

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recommend you do so, since it will save you a lot of time throughout the process.

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The concept should embody a lot of the preparation

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from before and serve as a reference for the model.

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It's good to start off the 3D sculpting with some simple blocking, which means

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laying out the overall proportions with simple shapes.

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This can be done by creating and placing

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cubes, cylinders, and spheres, and sculpting them roughly into shape.

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From here on, you add more definition and detail over time, step by step.

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It's okay to keep the shapes very planar and rough

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for now, until the overall shapes are set in stone.

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Definitely keep multiple objects around.

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You don't need to sculpt everything from one object.

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Also make good use of symmetry options to save time.

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To not really worry about running out of geometry to

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sculpt on, there are helpful tools in sculpt mode.

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One is dynamic topology, which is enabled with Ctrl D, which creates and removes

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geometry dynamically while you are sculpting.

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In the options you can further define things

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like the resolution and the remeshing method.

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There's also the new voxel remesher that remeshes the entire object almost

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immediately with the shortcut Ctrl R based on its volume alone, which is a much

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faster and reliable method with much better performance.

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It even remeshes intersecting objects if you merge them.

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You also don't actually need to use that many brushes to get the first sculpt going.

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Simple draw, crease, smooth, and grab brushes are usually enough.

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Once everything is roughly where it should be, it's good to finally merge

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the separate objects, either with the boolean modifier or by just joining

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them and remeshing everything with the voxel remesher.

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Afterwards, you can paint the objects with vertex colors to get a better

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impression of how the character will look like.

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This is very helpful, but also remember to turn the colors off from time to

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time since they can obscure the actual shapes of the sculpt.

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You can even paint in things that are not there like eyebrows and

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eyelashes to keep things fast and flexible for now.

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For the hair, you can again use separate objects or extract geometry from a

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mask or by using the skin modifier or even curves

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to create separate hair strands or ponytails.

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Afterwards, add vertex colors to those as well.

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If you don't have a strict concept art to follow, you can continue to

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Polish the head sculpt or create design variations before settling on one of them.

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Just make sure that you increase the resolution and Polish for the final

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head sculpt until you are happy with the results.

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Different mat caps or even your own custom ones can

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help you see surface imperfections more clearly.

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And don't worry about losing the vertex colors at this

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step since they can always be repainted afterwards.

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They just serve as a pre-visualization right now anyway.

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And again, keep references on the side, especially when sculpting things

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like hair, which can be very tricky to pull off if you're not used to it.

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For the rest of the body, it's basically the same thing.

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Starting with basic separate objects to block out

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the proportions and shapes is a good workflow.

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Also try using the mirror modifier with a custom

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mirror object that serves as a center axis.

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This way, you can easily keep the entire body

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symmetrical no matter the transforms of each object.

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Also, don't forget to apply the scale with Control-A

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of your objects to avoid weird brush behavior.

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It's good to sculpt the character in a resting pose, like a T-pose, with

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very straightened and angular limbs, or in an A-pose, which is more

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relaxed with, for example, 45-degree arm angles.

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The T-pose is a better resting pose for later rigging and animation,

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while the A-pose will give you more accurate deformations in the.

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If the character is leaning more towards a realistic style.

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Keep sculpting and refining the proportions and shapes

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until you are happy before joining everything together.

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For the clothing, it's again good to extract new objects from masks

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and refining them further by adding folds wherever there

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should be compression and stretching in the fabric.

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Vertex colors will again help you with your impression of the

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If you decide to change the overall proportions of the character,

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it's easier to merge all the objects of the

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body together and adjust everything together.

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Just be careful about any modifiers you might have still active.

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Afterwards, you can split them into individual

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objects again with a shortcut P in Edit Mode.

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You can again create variations of the outfit, but extracting them

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via masks is not the only option to create them.

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You can also, for example, box model a shirt,

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subdivide it a bit, and shrink wrap it back onto the

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sculpted body and continue defining it from there.

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Keep adding more sculpted parts of the outfits until everything is there.

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Some objects can remain a bit rough until you get to the final polishing later on.

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Before settling on the design completely,

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it's a great practice to test the current

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one and see if it can be tweaked in any way.

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This is also important for the later rigging and

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animation to have a style guide already at hand.

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Before work can start on that,

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it's important to have a better mesh to work with

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instead of the highly dense sculpt of the head right now.

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I can recommend to either roughly remodel the head manually from a subdivided cube.

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that you snap back onto the sculpt with a shrink wrap modifier,

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or to use the new quad remesher in the Object Data tab to the side.

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Just make sure to have enough overall density

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and place the geometry a bit more accurately

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around the eyes and mouth with some manual modeling.

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Also make sure the eyelids have three to four

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edge loops on them to be able to close them too.

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Add an inner mouth and some teeth and a tongue

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that closely represent the later polished result,

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but it's okay if they're a bit rough for now.

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To get most of the sculpted detail back, you can add a multi-resolution modifier,

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subdivided a couple of times,

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and add a shrink wrap modifier.

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Shrink wrap the original sculpt onto the new one

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and apply it and you will have the detailed version on the multi-res layers.

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Just make sure to not shrink wrap any geometry

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that wasn't there in the original sculpt,

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like the inner mouth and inner eyes.

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With a vertex group and some white painting,

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you can exclude parts to be shrink wrapped by adding it to the modifier.

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Add some shape keys, model and sculpt on each one to get different facial movements

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and mix and merge them however you like to create various expressions.

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Be careful to only work on the base resolution,

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not any of the multi-res layers.

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For this task, you essentially only need

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the grab and smooth brushes to move stuff around and relax areas a little bit.

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Start off with the basics,

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like closed eyes and an open mouth.

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You can create the same shape keys for multiple objects

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and either animate them together or even hook them

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up via drivers so that they all slide together.

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From there, work your way up with simple smiles,

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angry shouts and very stretched and compressed expression tests.

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This will inform you if the current proportions work well or need to be tweaked,

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but by the end, you should have some appealing expressions to show off as well.

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Like always, references are important,

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even if you're just filming yourself to know how a face is really supposed to move.

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You might realize the eye shape doesn't really work with all the expressions

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or that the eyebrows are too high by default or the teeth are too low and small.

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Just tweak those areas until it looks right.

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Just make sure to always get some feedback from friends or coworkers

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before moving on to the next big step or if you're in an actual production,

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sign it off like all the other steps by an art director or whoever your superior is.

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To make it all look even better,

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you can add some additional asymmetry

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to insert more character and appeal into each

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expression and you're done with the general design.

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From here on, the task is to create

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the actual production-ready asset and finalize the style.

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The sculpted character so far

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is sadly impossible to rig and animate in any production,

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so the model needs to be cleaned up.

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This is where the retopology comes in.

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Retopology is about creating a version of the model

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that has the lowest necessary amount of geometry

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with the same shapes as the original one, especially when subdividing it.

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Just create a new object and either start from a

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simple base object or just poly model it all the way, starting from the face.

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Make sure to use a mirror and shrink-wrap modifier

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and enable face snapping in edit mode to keep things close to the original sculpt.

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From here on, it's all about extruding,

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ripping, cutting, filling, and merging geometry to get the topology you need.

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There are a few things that make up a good retopology.

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The edge flow is very important,

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which is the direction of the loops that are going around the surface.

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These are all made from quads, which are faces with four sides,

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and they're led into different directions via Poles,

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which are vertices with less or more than four connected edges.

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But never go above five connected edges.

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Otherwise, they might become really visible.

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It's very much a puzzle where you need to create

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an efficient and very functional version of your objects

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that supports any sort of movement, compression,

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or stretching that will happen with it once it gets animated.

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For example, just like for the expression tests,

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it's good to add some extra loops on the eyelids since

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these will have to close too and need that extra geometry.

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Joints need a minimum of three edge loops

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to be able to bend while keeping their shape.

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If you want to exaggerate a crease somewhere in the face for certain expressions,

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also have a minimum of three edge loops ready,

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like at the laugh line or between the brows.

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Using the Subdivision Surface Modifier

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will smooth the entire result, so be aware of stretching.

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That's why you should mostly rely on evenly sized quads all over the place,

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especially on areas that will deform a lot or very curved.

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Creases and hard surfaces are an exception usually

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since the former needs more density to stay sharp

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and the latter doesn't need any extra loops to deform well.

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It's generally a good practice to start from the face

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and to retopologize each limb separately from

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there and stitch them together afterwards.

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Make the loops generally follow the shapes

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and muscles of the body to support the direction they will deform to.

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Make sure that most loops lead back into each other.

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You don't want some loops to spiral all over your objects.

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At some point, you will have retopologized everything that was sculpted,

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which is when you will have to model things that weren't already there.

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But first, add a Multi-Res Modifier,

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subdivide it a couple of times,

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and apply the shrink wrap over it.

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Then click on Apply Base and get rid of the Multi-Res Modifier too.

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Now your retopology will have the same volumes as the

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original sculpt when adding a Subdivision Surface Modifier.

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From here on out, you can model in some inner eyelids,

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inner mouth, Polish the already existing teeth,

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gums, and tongue, and model in some proper eyes.

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When you get to the clothing,

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you can duplicate parts of the body to have a good base to start from.

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This is also the time to add some more definition to roughly sculpted objects

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or adding seams and nice pockets to pants and other details.

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Once it's done, make sure to have the asset in the

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correct world scale, like roughly 1.7 meters in my case,

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and it's time to go to the next step.

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Just like the topology is the first step to some good rigging and deformations,

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the UV maps are the first step to good textures and materials.

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Just imagine you take some scissors

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and make multiple cuts on your cleanly modeled character,

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unfold it onto a flat surface,

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and place an image on top.

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This flat, unfolded mesh is a UV map,

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and that's how texturing a digital model is done.

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To achieve this, you can select edges in edit mode and tag them as seams.

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These edges will be the cuts on the UVs.

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Once you have them placed, you can unwrap your mesh

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and the UV map will be visible in the UV editor.

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By enabling the stretching overlay,

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it will be more visible if the UVs are less ideal in certain areas.

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Also already using the UV map to add a color grid texture onto the model

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will also show the distribution of the UV space better.

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The goal is very much to place just enough seams to evenly

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lay out the mesh with minimal amounts of stretching.

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But just like it's impossible to create a perfectly flat map of the earth

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without some areas being a bit bigger than others,

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some imperfections will be hard to avoid.

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Also try to avoid placing too many seams that are in the face, for example,

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since under certain circumstances,

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it can be easy to spot the seams.

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Hide the seams as best as you can.

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Once you have your UVs nicely unwrapped,

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it's time to adjust and organize them better.

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They should be laid out in a way where they take up as

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much space as possible from the one by one UV space.

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Having them placed in a symmetrical way can also be very helpful later on.

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Make sure the UVs are generally having the same scale unless you

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want some UV islands to get more texture resolution than others.

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It's a bit like packing your luggage and making sure

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everything fits in perfectly without getting all messed up.

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For areas like the eyes and lips,

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it can also be helpful to select that geometry and projecting it from the view,

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smoothing them out a bit and stitching them back to the rest.

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Whatever makes the UVs more evenly distributed,

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if you start adjusting UVs like this in detail,

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remember that you can pin UV points with the shortcut P

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so that they don't move when unwrapping those UVs again.

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Also make sure that none of the UV borders are too close together

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and that no UVs should ever overlap unless you know what you're doing.

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You can also use UV sculpting tools for wider smoothing and grabbing of areas,

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but be careful not to cause too much stretching with it.

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Scale some areas with proportional editing enabled to get some

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more evenly sized UVs at the cost of some more stretching.

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It's always a bit of a balancing act between the two.

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For the clothing, it might also be important

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to have the UV maps laid out in neat rectangular patches.

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This way, it's very easy to just slap on

18:55.841 --> 19:00.440
some fabric patterns without having them distorted or go into weird directions.

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Just pin the borders of the islands and enable live unwrapping.

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Then adjust the borders to be as rectangular as possible

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and the rest in between will automatically conform to it.

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And keep comparing it to the grid texture in the 3D view.

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This will be a good reference on how distorted the textures would be

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and how much texture resolution each area gets.

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Go through all the different objects with these principles

19:25.481 --> 19:30.020
and you will have some clean functional UVs to texture in the next step.

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To get the character some colors, we need to add textures.

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Add a shader editor in the interface to edit the node-based materials

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and an image editor to see and paint on the textures in a 2D view.

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Also as a pro tip,

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enable the node wrangler add-on in the preferences.

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I can recommend to just use the default principle BSDF shader in the nodes

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since it has basically everything one would need during the texturing.

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Then start out with the basic colors.

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Do this by adding and painting on image textures

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or vertex colors and plugging the node outputs into the base color of the shader.

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Most nodes can be freely mixed with the mix

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RGB node and each have their own advantages.

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Use the material preview mode in the viewport

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which displays everything you're working on.

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Control shift click on any node to see that output directly.

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Start out with most primary colors and then mix in secondary colors.

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You can also then start mixing in ambient occlusion or cavity

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inputs, patterns, noise and specific painted in details.

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Just blend the nodes together either by using screen to

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brighten, multiply to darken or mix to blend between two inputs.

20:52.380 --> 20:54.640
Also make sure to paint on the Alpha channel

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which is the transparency on an image texture

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to use as a mask by plugging it into the factor afterwards.

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The well aligned rectangular UVs for the clothing will really become useful now

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since images like clothing patterns can just be

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slapped on top and they will immediately align.

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Extra details like stitches can always be painted separately on top afterwards.

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Definitely keep all of these influences in the color

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as separate nodes because once you are done,

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it's time for the shading.

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The other most used inputs in the shaders apart from the base color are roughness

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to define the glossy shine or the lack thereof,

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metalness if the surface is metallic.

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and normal to add fake high frequency details.

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that we didn't model in already.

21:47.120 --> 21:50.140
If you want parts to be transparent like glass or ice,

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you can use transmission

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and to just make them use fade away or just completely disappear, use Alpha.

21:57.260 --> 22:01.080
You can also use specular to tone down the glossy highlights

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but if you want to have it really realistically accurate,

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increase the roughness instead.

22:07.320 --> 22:09.120
Plug your individual nodes from the color

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also into color ramps and hue saturation value nodes to

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change and then remix them for the other inputs of the shader.

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Try to keep everything organized well enough by clumping nodes together,

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framing them or even grouping them.

22:24.660 --> 22:28.200
Change the lighting conditions and test how the materials react.

22:28.740 --> 22:32.800
Adding additional lights and rotating them around manually can also help.

22:33.660 --> 22:38.320
In case of the skin, it's also good to add subsurface scattering or SSS in short,

22:38.660 --> 22:42.040
to give it that waxy look like the light is shining through.

22:42.700 --> 22:45.880
To give a nice fake hair look on modeled hair,

22:46.200 --> 22:50.540
I can recommend the anisotropy shading which adds

22:50.541 --> 22:52.000
a directional distortion to the glossy highlights.

22:52.720 --> 22:57.220
Turning the anisotropy to one by itself is not really going to look convincing

22:57.221 --> 23:02.480
or even good since it just adds a spherical pattern based on a world axis.

23:03.160 --> 23:05.820
You need to create a second UV map,

23:06.460 --> 23:11.100
add it as a tangent node and plug it into the tangent input of the shader.

23:11.900 --> 23:15.160
The orientation of the UVs will then influence the direction

23:15.161 --> 23:18.400
of which the highlights will be distorted towards.

23:18.860 --> 23:24.320
So all hair strands need to be laid out as flat as possible and aligned vertically.

23:24.760 --> 23:29.100
Now the shiny streaks are going horizontally across the surface

23:29.101 --> 23:32.380
instead of the fixed spherical direction of before.

23:33.120 --> 23:35.200
To fake individual hair strands of hair,

23:35.320 --> 23:39.240
you can paint a black and white texture with small value

23:39.241 --> 23:42.300
differences and plug it into the anisotropy rotation.

23:42.960 --> 23:47.820
Adjust that same directional map with a color ramp and plug it into the roughness.

23:48.360 --> 23:50.020
Add color and you're done.

23:50.620 --> 23:54.200
Keep testing and tweaking your materials in both Eevee

23:54.201 --> 23:57.020
and Cycles and optimize it towards the render engine

23:57.021 --> 23:59.780
you want to use later on for the final rendering.

24:00.460 --> 24:01.080
Once you're happy,

24:01.200 --> 24:04.960
you might have a hugely complex nonsensical node tree.

24:05.480 --> 24:09.400
This can be then simplified by only looking at the necessary inputs

24:09.401 --> 24:16.320
that lead into the shader and baking everything down into a set of image textures.

24:17.380 --> 24:20.040
Just make sure you have Cycles set as the render engine.

24:20.041 --> 24:23.360
You Control Shift clicked on the part of the node tree

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you want to bake and select an image texture node

24:26.761 --> 24:30.060
where you want to bake it to and it should work.

24:30.500 --> 24:31.960
To speed up the baking process,

24:32.140 --> 24:34.140
set the samples to something pretty low,

24:34.500 --> 24:37.200
go absolutely overboard on the tile size,

24:37.620 --> 24:41.740
set the bake type to emit with a generous margin and click bake.

24:42.560 --> 24:43.740
Ideally, once you are done,

24:44.000 --> 24:47.320
your character should look good whether you use

24:47.321 --> 24:49.740
Eevee, Cycles or just material colors in the viewport.

24:50.540 --> 24:53.940
Just like we wrapped up the original design with some expression tests,

24:54.320 --> 24:58.700
this is the time to put everything that we made so far to the test with a full pose.

24:59.260 --> 25:02.920
This is to see if there are any last adjustments that should be done,

25:03.080 --> 25:04.840
like tweaking the proportions of the body,

25:05.140 --> 25:06.480
fixing stretching, et cetera.

25:06.940 --> 25:11.260
Of course, it's also great to not present the character in the current resting pose.

25:12.100 --> 25:16.580
The Rigify adding in the preferences can really help to get some rough poses going.

25:17.440 --> 25:21.700
Add a basic human meta rig and adjust the placement, size and orientation

25:21.701 --> 25:24.320
of the bones in edit mode to fit the character.

25:25.000 --> 25:28.340
Don't forget to enable X mirror to save yourself some time.

25:28.920 --> 25:32.140
Once you're done, click on generate rig and there it is.

25:32.380 --> 25:37.740
Select your character, then the rig and with control P

25:37.741 --> 25:39.860
parent the objects to the armature with automatic weights.

25:40.700 --> 25:45.040
With this done, you can do some exploration in the

25:45.041 --> 25:46.980
overall pose, experiment and see what you want to go for.

25:47.320 --> 25:48.740
Since the rig is pretty procedural,

25:49.200 --> 25:50.340
there will be issues.

25:50.860 --> 25:52.760
If some deformations are outright broken,

25:52.940 --> 25:56.560
you can manually go into weight paint mode and paint out some issues.

25:57.000 --> 26:00.240
Make as many poses as you want until you find your favorite in the end.

26:01.400 --> 26:02.640
Don't forget to look at references

26:02.641 --> 26:05.320
and even make references from yourself if necessary.

26:05.760 --> 26:09.300
I recommend to have a second viewport to the side

26:09.301 --> 26:13.940
and set the shading to be completely black, maybe with some dark gray outlines.

26:14.600 --> 26:17.800
This way you can see if the silhouette is readable enough.

26:18.540 --> 26:20.360
The pose can then be tweaked towards

26:20.361 --> 26:23.720
a single camera angle or any perspective you want to render.

26:24.400 --> 26:29.460
Make sure the pose is dynamic enough with differences in angles,

26:29.461 --> 26:31.700
enough asymmetry and whatever else you have in mind as well.

26:32.840 --> 26:35.140
In this example, I wanted something comfortable

26:35.141 --> 26:39.860
and confident, not a super happy victory jump or something like that,

26:39.861 --> 26:43.280
but something way more contained and down to earth.

26:43.760 --> 26:46.580
Have an idea in mind of what kind of pose you want.

26:47.340 --> 26:49.720
Then apply the armature modifiers as shape keys

26:49.721 --> 26:53.300
and then you do essentially the same thing as with the expression tests.

26:53.740 --> 26:56.700
Add more shape keys for various non-destructive fixes

26:56.701 --> 27:01.000
in the deformations and keep comparing it to the original resting pose

27:01.001 --> 27:04.040
because the proportions shouldn't change, of course.

27:05.140 --> 27:08.720
This is very easy when animating all shape keys to zero

27:08.721 --> 27:12.940
on one frame and enabling all shape keys on the next one.

27:13.280 --> 27:15.680
Creating variations this way is also a good opportunity.

27:16.520 --> 27:19.280
If you notice that the arms actually look a

27:19.281 --> 27:20.700
bit weird in length or the hands are too big,

27:21.100 --> 27:25.020
now is the time to make last changes before committing to the end result.

27:25.700 --> 27:29.900
Also sculpt an expression that you like and Polish it until you're happy.

27:30.840 --> 27:33.120
From here on out, you can play some lights,

27:33.500 --> 27:36.000
a nice environment and render a final image.

27:36.001 --> 27:39.020
Render multiple angles or even a turntable

27:39.021 --> 27:41.500
to show as much of the character as possible.

27:41.980 --> 27:45.380
A so-called Clay render is also good to show off the model itself,

27:45.700 --> 27:48.180
where it's rendered colorless in diffuse gray

27:48.181 --> 27:51.700
with only the bump and normal information at most from the materials.

27:52.580 --> 27:56.000
Add wireframes on top as well to show off the clean topology you created.

27:56.680 --> 28:00.240
Render those also as turntables and you have a complete

28:00.241 --> 28:01.560
character for production that you can show off.

28:02.300 --> 28:04.240
From here on, there are of course more steps

28:04.241 --> 28:06.840
like doing an actual rig for the animation,

28:07.220 --> 28:09.720
animation testing and the rest of the production.

28:10.400 --> 28:13.900
But in terms of finding and developing the design and style of the character,

28:14.300 --> 28:16.580
these are the steps you need at the very least

28:16.581 --> 28:19.480
to create a complete stylized character workflow.

28:21.060 --> 28:23.580
If you're interested in more educational Blender content,

28:24.080 --> 28:27.000
a huge asset library of all the Blender open

28:27.001 --> 28:29.420
movies or you want to support these projects,

28:29.840 --> 28:32.520
head on over to the Blender Cloud and say hi in the comments.

28:32.860 --> 28:36.960
You will also find a fully rigged version of this example character called Rain

28:36.961 --> 28:39.840
and various files from the creation process.

28:40.720 --> 28:42.800
I hope to see you there and thank you for watching.
