WEBVTT

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Hey guys, are you interested in making something

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in Blender that you want to then 3D print?

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So come along on a little journey with me where I show some

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examples of how I actually make some stuff for 3D printing.

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And I'll give you my thought process and show you some tips and tricks along the way.

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Bear in mind that I am going to assume that you

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have some general knowledge of Blender already.

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So for the first example, I'm going to be

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modeling a little token or a coin for board games.

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It's going to be quite simple, but it's going to illustrate a lot of the

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fundamentals that you will later need if you want to make

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something or design something a little bit more complicated.

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All right, let's get into it.

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So we have fresh Blender here.

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The Blender I'm using right now, it's December

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of 2025, so right at the end of the year.

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And the most current version of Blender is Blender 5.10 alpha.

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You're in the future, so your Blender is going to be more cool than mine.

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Just bear in mind that maybe some buttons or settings or something with the user

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interface changed, but all the basic principles should remain the same.

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So let's just customize a little bit our little thing here.

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All right.

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So first off, setting up the scene.

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You see this little guy here, default cube.

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He is two meters by two meters by two meters.

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But when you're 3D printing, that is a little bit outside the scale.

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Usually you're working with millimeters.

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So first thing we want to do is we want to change

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the unit of the scene itself to millimeters.

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So we go here to scene, units, and unit scale, 0.001.

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And we're going to set this meters thing here to millimeters.

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Boom.

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All right.

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And it is kind of nice to have having the scene

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grid also to the same thing, so the same scale.

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So we're going to go here to overlay, set this to 0.001.

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And fantastic.

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Now we are in the same scale and working with millimeters.

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I want to talk just a little bit about the workflow.

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So I'm just going to do the workflow that I usually do.

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This is coming from nothing, just my personal experience.

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So keep that in mind as you develop your own workflow.

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So we're going to be making a board game coin that's probably like maybe like four

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centimeters or like 40 millimeters by three millimeters, something like that.

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And how I organize things in the collections,

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I would want kind of the main thing to be here.

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Let's make a collection called like main, and that's maybe the main objects.

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And then as I kind of boolean add, join things

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together, I'm going to want to organize them here.

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And then some stuff I'm going to boolean subtract or whatever the phrase is.

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So sub, take those away.

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I like to work as non-destructive as possible.

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And then I would make something that was, you know, maybe it had some reference

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meshes that I would want to work with.

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So I would throw that in here.

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And then a lot of cases in some steps that I'm doing that are a little bit more

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destructive, I like to have a backup collection.

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That's kind of where along the way, I throw things in there just to be safe.

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So if anything were to happen, I could always maybe take a few steps back

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or have it as a reference point or whatnot.

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When you're organizing stuff like this, you want to find a balance where you have

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that kind of creative freedom to be making stuff

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but not get bogged down with all the overhead.

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You don't want to overthink it, you don't want to make it unnavigatable,

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if that makes sense.

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So a lot of times I'm not actually naming a lot of my meshes,

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but sometimes I do when I know that it can be very helpful.

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But as a rule of thumb, I'm always trying to work as non-destructive as possible.

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And I'll give some demonstrations of that later.

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First things first, I just wanted to mention

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that there are two common types of 3D printers.

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So one is kind of commonly known as an extrusion printer, and one is a resin printer.

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Extrusion printers are called FDM, which is Fused Deposition Modeling,

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and then the resin ones are called Stereolithography SLA.

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But mentioning the printer, you have to keep in

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mind that the printer itself has a resolution.

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So that's actually another... let's add a collection here called...

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And I want you to keep that in mind.

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So I'm going to make a cylinder here.

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And I am going to give it a dimension.

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So this is going to represent, just visually, what, you know,

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as you have the nozzle of your 3D printer, it's

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extruding the the plastic through the nozzle.

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You have to bear in mind how big it is, because that essentially is your resolution.

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So if you see here, this is the thickness of it, and the

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layer height, I think by default it's 0.2 in my printer.

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For this project, I would probably like manually set it to something like 0.

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12, like 12.

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And so this, you know, it's not obvious now because you're kind of seeing this

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without context, but this will be a helpful guide in

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understanding the resolution that you're working with.

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It is important to know that as you print stuff, there's a margin of error.

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There's many reasons for that margin of error.

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So even if you model something perfectly in Blender and you want to 3D print it,

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it's never going to be a complete 100% match.

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There's always a little bit of tolerances that you have to deal with.

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So just as an example, let's say you have this cube, and let's say, I don't know,

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it's 20 millimeters, and this is just a hypothetical here.

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Let's say I inset it a little bit here.

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Okay, so it has this kind of groove.

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And by the way, this is a helpful thing for me personally.

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I like to put on the cavity in the viewport shading and put it on both.

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And that way, you see difference here.

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It gives you just that kind of extra visual feedback on where it's kind of

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inset or the corners and the edges and all that stuff.

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So let's say hypothetically, we have this kind of

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a cubey thing and it has this kind of hole in it.

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And let's duplicate this and make it into another object.

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And I extrude that object.

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Okay, so now I have a box, right?

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And it goes snugly into this hole.

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And I'll just tell you right now, if you took these two objects and you 3D

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printed them, put them next to each other, put them in a 3D printer, print them out,

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they will never ever ever fit into one another.

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And that's because of tolerance.

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So it just means that there is a margin of error where it'll be

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slightly more or less than you expected, usually slightly more.

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And that means that when you're designing stuff in

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Blender or whatever, you need to keep that mind.

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So what is the rule of thumb?

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Because the changes in size and the actual tolerance

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levels, they can depend on so many different things.

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It's the material of the filament itself, is it PLA, ABS, the temperatures you're

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using, the fan that's there, the color, the resolution, the infill, the printer

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itself, how well it's maintained and whatnot, the nozzle

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size, the overall heat and the humidity in the air.

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There's a lot of these variables that can come all

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together and they can make it slightly inconsistent.

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So if I have a certain printer here and I design something and I print it and it's

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fantastic and I send the model to a friend of mine in Zimbabwe or whatever and he has

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a different printer and the temperature of the room is different and whatnot,

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he prints it out, it might not have the same fit as maybe

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my original design had and how it printed out for me.

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So the rule of thumb when you're making pieces fit together and you're thinking

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about the tolerance level is you want... If you're aiming at a snug fit,

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it's between 0.1 and 0.2 millimeters.

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So it would be... You create kind of a gap

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between... So here I'm doing maybe like two.

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You could split the difference and go like 0.15.

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Here I'm just doing 0.2.

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I keep being zoomed out, sorry.

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So for example, now this box hypothetically would,

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if they were printed, it would fit snugly in.

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But it wouldn't end at the right position because this problem would also be here at

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the bottom if it was really important that it would fit all the way to the end here.

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So you may need to move this also.

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So you're kind of creating a pocket of air that is the margin of error.

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So just keep that in mind that tolerance is a thing

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that you have to be careful about as you design stuff.

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And the more complicated your designs are, the more it becomes a factor.

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So with that being said, we are going to be using, by the

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way, just PLA because it's a very beginner-friendly material.

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It's the one I'm more familiar with.

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And yeah, my printer is a P1S run-of-the -mill with a 0.4 millimeter nozzle.


